According to Jen (a.k.a. my mom), “it simply isn’t a party if curry goat is not on the menu!”  

Billy goat~ attributed to Fir0002/Flagstaffotos

Yep, goat meat is the celebrated protein at big dances and festivals throughout Jamaica.  The same is true for the Jamaican diaspora -- it was Christmas tradition for my grandfather to slaughter a goat from his farm so that the celebratory curry goat and goat head soup could be made.  (The Rolling Stones know what I'm talking about.) 

I remember Jamaican jerk seasoning being the subject of one of the easy questions on the game show, Who Wants to Be a Millionaire.  So when it comes to Jamaican cuisine, I guess it’s pretty safe to say that the American public is adequately familiar with jerk and, of course, the ubiquitous beef patty.  (And I say “ubiquitous” because I still can’t understand why I frequently encounter patties at neighborhood pizzerias and in the frozen section at Costco.)  But it seems people are less familiar with other Jamaican staples, like curry goat, a dish that was first introduced by indentured laborers emigrating from India. Growing up in suburbia, I would have rather died than admit to my peers that I both ate and relished this dish.  Even as an adult, I don’t necessarily scream this from the rooftops (c’mon, you know that Dunkin Donuts commercial!).  But a recent New York Times article revealed that not only is goat consumed in Western countries, like Greece and (Southern) Italy, but that eating goat is now -omg!- trendy. I can come out of the (goat) closet.  

Curry goat, when cooked correctly, is simply perfection. (Note to NYT columnist, Henry Alford: it is supposed to be neither “tough” nor “rubbery”!).  Ideally, you want the meat of a male kid; its texture is quite delicate and tender, much like lamb or a lamb-beef combo.  Flavor-wise, this dish is wonderfully complex with rich seasonings of allspice and scotch bonnet pepper; you’ll find that the bones act as reservoirs for this curry gravy.  Goat meat is one of the leaner proteins, but the little bits of fat attached to the meat and bones will compel you to finish off the pieces with your fingers.  

The Sip

So, the dilemma with this meal is finding a wine that is going to stand up to the flavors and hold its own.  Something that has gusto, but without the arrogance.  For the curry goat, I went for something special from Beaumes de Venise, a little sub region in Southern Rhone. 

Domaine de Fenouillet ~ 2006 Beaumes de Venise - Terres Blanches

Varietals: grenache (50%), syrah (40%) and mourvedre (10%).

Nose: Great bouquet with aromas of earth and black-skinned fruit.

Palate: Blackberries and black cherries with undertones of earth and forest floor flavors.  Silky tannins add structure, while maintaining its approachability.  The dark fruit flavors really complement the deep flavors of the Jamaican curry. 

Terroir: The vines benefit from the winery’s location at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail, just north of Provence.  Translated as Montmirail’s Teeth, the sharp and jagged mountain peaks consist of limestone that enriches the soil with notes of chalk and flint.  The peaks also reflect the warm Mediterranean sunlight onto the grapevines, helping them to ripen.  In this part of Cotes du Rhone, the emphasis is principally on its fortified wines. So, it’s extra fun that I stumbled upon this beautiful dry red.   

The Winery: 

Family-owned for generations, Domaine de Fenouillet (pronounced Fun-wee-yay) was handed down to Patrick and Vincent Soard in 1988. Up to then, the winery had sourced their grapes out to a growers cooperative, but Patrick and Vincent decided to change direction and vinify the family’s harvest. Their first vintage wine was released in 1989. 

Ingredients 

4 lbs goat meat, pre-cut into small pieces

(Ask the butcher for pieces that aren’t too bony)

1 large onion, chopped

1 bunch of scallions, diced

*1 scotch bonnet peppers, finely chopped and without the seeds

3 sprigs of thyme

4 cloves of garlic, chopped

2 tbsp seasoned salt

4 tbsp Jamaican curry powder (Mom likes Blue Mountain brand) 

4 tbsp cooking oil 

1 tsp Jamaican ground allspice

4 cups water

*You can substitute 2 tablespoons of Jamaican dry jerk seasoning and 1 teaspoon of Jamaican wet jerk seasoning 

Directions

1. Season mutton with onion, garlic, salt, curry, and allspice.  Allow to marinate overnight.

2. Scrape garlic and onion from meat and set aside on reserve. (optional)  

3. Brown mutton in hot oil for about 15 minutes. 

4. Add water and the garlic-onion reserve.

5. Simmer until cooked for about 2-3 hours (or, half the time in a pressure cooker).

6. Check often and add more water and/or seasoning if necessary. 

Tip: Curry goat is excellent over a bed of white rice.  You might be tempted to serve it with rice an’ peas simply because it’s just so authentically Jamaican/Caribbean.  Resist, though! The curry marries better with the clean and simple flavor of plain rice.  Besides, curry goat is an adapted Indian dish. So, save the rice and peas for other Jamaican dishes like oxtail and stew chicken.